I n 1935, six varieties
are banned in France to respond to a crisis of overproduction of wine. These
prohibited vine plants are very resistant hybrid varieties and therefore
require little maintenance. Because of these qualities, we are now witnessing a
slow return to hybrid varieties, the varieties prohibited in the inter-war
years are only the most extreme example of the history of these vines.
"Their resilience comes from their
history," notes Christian Sunt, association Forgotten Fruits, which
campaigns for recognition of these varieties. This story is rooted in the
nineteenth century, highly turbulent period for the wine production. The
European vine is contaminated with imported strains of America: powdery mildew,
phylloxera and other blight ravaged French vineyards. US plants themselves,
resist the evils (fungi, insects) they conveyed as a healthy carrier in Europe.
New varieties, called hybrids are created from
US feet. The combinations are multiple hybridization between two American
strains, hybridization between American and European strains between
American-European and American ... The protected varieties are part of these
first generation hybrid, created from the late nineteenth century.
"They were known as the most productive and
the worst too! With foxy taste , "says Olivier Yobregat
agronomist-oenologist engineer and plant material at the French Institute of
Wine and Vine . The term comes from fox, fox in English, suggesting that their
taste recall that of the fox piss. If the American vine is resistant, taste the
wines it produces is not appreciated. The European vine is it small but
renowned tasty bite. Hybridization between European plants is to find a balance
between these two qualities, both defects.
A table wine at low cost
After the wine underproduction crisis has
finally overproduction period with the development of the Algerian vineyard. It
is then to these hybrid varieties, resistant but quills, which turns: Jacquez ,
Noah , Herbemont , clinton , Isabelle and Othello are prohibited from
winemaking.
These varieties were now mainly used by small
farmers who cultivated the plots in their toughest soils. They made a table
wine at low cost. But this self-sufficiency was their little part in the flow
of national and Algerian production.
Following the adage "wants to drown his dog
accused of rage" of the time accused the political wines made from these
grapes make mad. This political episode of the Third Republic is not free of backstabbing,
since some varieties were also forbidden to embarrass a member or minister
whose political feud had many of these varieties. Jacquez would have been
banned to annoy Edouard Daladier.
The goal is to use fewer inputs
Olivier Yobregat
But it was not until 1950-60 that hybrid
varieties are actually rejected. Chemical treatments are used to contain the
disease. In the golden age of the input, the natural resistance of hybrids is
less desirable. The prohibition of the six banned from 1935 materializes with
grubbing-up premiums and fines. Twenty other hybrid grapes are allowed, but
"it discourages planting. While hybrid surfaces were considerable before
they die of themselves, not renewed, "says Olivier Yobregat. And "it
banishes hybrid designations", except for the white Baco recommended for
Armagnac.
Today, there is a return of hybrid varieties.
The European Union approved in 1999 the wines of crossed varieties, which is to
say of hybrids, which by their American component are naturally resistant to attacks
for which the winemakers heavy use of inputs.
The newly created hybrid resistors are being
evaluated at the INRA , the National Institute for Agricultural Research. These
varieties are tolerant to downy mildew and powdery mildew. "The goal is to
use fewer inputs", simply summarizes the agronomist-oenologist Olivier
Yobregat engineer. These new plants would reduce the number of treatment:
"A place from October to December annual
treatments against mildew, it will be sufficient to two or three."
In the future, resistant varieties, that is to
say, not requiring treatment could be developed.
Still banned varietals
But the reduction of inputs is a strong
argument. Hervé Garnier of Association Vine Memory Jacquez who grows a variety
prohibited in the Ardèche, notes that "the mentality of winemakers evolve,
they say they might have of the vine without dealing without health problem ...
The modern viticulture goes back to the hybrids, "he predicts.
Currently, the best vinification limit the
problem of acidity in wines, while for wine tastes evolve. Hervé Garnier,
"there is no doubt that wines from grapes allowed to join them organic
wines on the market if they were allowed."
The six varieties banned in 1935 still are. The
European Union has maintained its ban without scientific basis. Cultivator’s activist’s
ampelographists and agronomists agree to recognize that the charge to instill
madness drinkers is unfounded. Small banned varieties of vines have survived
until today, but this production remains anecdotal.
Associations campaigning for the lifting of the
ban, which owes more to "bureaucratic inertia" than a "real
opposition to these varieties' for Christian Sunt of Forgotten Fruits.
But the lifting of the old ban certainly not
revolutionize wine production. Olivier Yobregat "their authorization would
have no impact, no replant that! This does not lead to a real decrease of
inputs used. “He simply sees a way "to please small local programs. To the
historic level, this could be interesting. “However, the table agronomist
successors of these first hybrids. One or two hybrid varieties latest
generation currently under evaluation could be authorized by 2016.
